"Ocean waves." . . "Shallow water." . . . "AN EXPERIMENTAL STUDY OF BREAKING-WAVE PRESSURES"@en . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . "Tests were conducted to gain more information concerning the shock pressures created by water waves breaking against vertical barriers. These wave pressures were studied using small-scale oscillatory waves in a flume fitted with a beach slope and test wall. The variation of pressure with both time and position on the wall was determined for several wave heights, wave periods, water depths, and beach slopes. Great scatter in the magnitude of the shock pressure was observed for each of the wave conditions tested. This variation in the value of the shock pressure is believed to be caused by slight variations in the shape of the incident breaking wave. Therefore, many tests were made using the same wave conditions in order to more accurately determine the magnitude of the shock pressure."@en . "An experimental study of breaking-wave pressures"@en . "An experimental study of breaking-wave pressures" . "Breakwaters." . . "Hydraulics Laboratory (U.S.)" . . "ARMY ENGINEER WATERWAYS EXPERIMENT STATION VICKSBURG MS." . . "Walls." . . "Sea-walls." . . "Shock(mechanics)" . . "United States. Army. Office of the Chief of Engineers." . . "Mathematical prediction." . . "U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station." . . "Approximation(mathematics)" . . "High speed photography." . . "Mechanics." . . "Deep water." . . "Distribution." . . . . "Impact." . . "Civil Engineering." . . "Water waves." . . "Pressure." . . "Physical and Dynamic Oceanography." . . "Force(mechanics)" . . "Oscillation." . . "Theory." . . "Beaches." . .